Adjusting an integrated handlebar to eliminate play in the headset on a road bike involves several steps. Here’s a detailed guide based on the provided sources:

Tools Needed

• Allen keys (typically 4, 5, and 6mm)
• Torque wrench
• Possibly a T20, T25, or T30 Torx key if your bike uses Torx bolts

Steps to Adjust the Headset

Preparation:

1. Place your bike on level ground or in a bike stand to ensure stability.
2. Ensure you have all necessary tools within reach.
3. Loosen the Stem Bolts:
   • Loosen the stem pinch bolts using the appropriate Allen key or Torx key. These bolts clamp the stem to the steerer tube and must be loosened to adjust the headset
4. Remove the Top Cap:
   • Unscrew and remove the top cap and bolt from the top of the stem. This cap helps preload the headset bearings
5. Adjust the Headset Preload:
   • With the top cap removed, check for any play by holding the front brake and rocking the bike back and forth. If there is play, it indicates that the headset is too loose
   • Reinstall the top cap and bolt, and tighten it gradually. The goal is to eliminate any play without over-tightening, which can cause the headset to bind and become stiff. Tighten the top cap bolt until you feel resistance, then check for play again by rocking the bike. Max 3nM
6. Check for Proper Adjustment:
   • Ensure the headset is neither too loose (causing play) nor too tight (causing stiffness). A properly adjusted headset should allow the front wheel to turn smoothly without any play.
7. Tighten the Stem Bolts:
   • Once the headset is properly adjusted, re-tighten the stem pinch bolts to the manufacturer’s specified torque (see side of stem). This is usually indicated on the stem itself. Ensure the handlebars are aligned with the front wheel before fully tightening the bolts

Final Checks:

• Double-check the adjustment by lifting the front wheel slightly and letting it drop. The wheel should turn smoothly without any knocking or resistance.
• Ensure all bolts are tightened to the correct torque specifications to avoid any issues while riding

Additional Tips

• If you continue to experience issues with play or stiffness, it may be necessary to inspect the bearings and other components for wear or damage. Cleaning and re-greasing the bearings can also help improve performance.
• For integrated handlebars, ensure that all internal cables and hoses are routed correctly and do not interfere with the headset adjustment

The headsets on A30, A21, A10 is ZS44/EC44. This Standard is compatible with the corresponding models from Chris King, Cane Creek, White Industries and other brands.

The headset on A30M is EC44/EC44. This is a handlebar-specific headset designed to be used in conjunction with our integrated one-piece stem/handlebar. For other brands of integrated stem/handlebar setups (e.g. FSA ACR), you will need to use a compatible headset which works for that handlebar system.

All of our disc brake models use our own Thru-Axles, removable with the included lever or a 6mm Hex tool.

For Brakes, 140mm Flat Mount is standard on A30M, A30, A21. An adapter is needed for 160mm brake rotor, refer to your groupset manufacturers instructions.

Our Rims come in two varieties: Hooked and Hookless bead design.

Hooked Bead Design

• R45, D30, D35, and D45 rims (21mm internal width).
• Minimum tyre width on our hooked rims: 23 mm
• Max Tire Pressure on our hooked rims: 120 PSI
• Recommended Tubeless Tape width: 24-25mm

Hookless Bead Design

• DX24 (650b) and DX24 (700c) rims (24mm internal width).
• Our hookless rims are compatible with major brands of tubeless tyres unless the manufacturer specifically states that a tyre is not compatible with hookless rims.
• Minimum Tyre width on our hookless rims: 30 mm
• Max Tire pressure on our hookless rims: 72 PSI
• Recommended Tubeless Tape width: 27-28mm

Spoke Lengths of SERK wheels

Gravel 700C

Front both sides: 294mm
Rear drive side: 292mm
Rear non-drive side: 294mm

Gravel 650B

Front both sides: 276mm
Rear drive side: 274mm
Rear non-drive side: 276mm

45mm Road Disc

Front disc side: 274mm
Front non-disc side: 276mm
Rear drive side: 272mm
Rear non-drive side: 276mm

For A21, the fork comes with a set of adapters and spacers for adjusting the fork flip chip position and use of the cargo mounts on either side of the fork.

Flip Chip adapter and operation:
The A21 fork flip chip allows you to adjust the position of the axle and thereby changing the offset (rake) of your fork. This will in turn affect your handling response. There are 2 flip chip positions on the fork: Business Mode or Party Mode.

By default your fork is shipped with the Flip Chip in the Business Mode. This mode will allow for 52mm of rake for your fork to give you less mechanical trail and more nimble handling.

In Business Mode, you install the the front brake caliper as per normal on any other flat mount fork, with the manufacturer provided fastening bolts.

Party Mode allows for 47mm of rake for your fork to give you more mechanical trail and a more stable handling.

To switch from Business Mode to Party Mode:

1. Remove the wheel and front thru-axle
2. Loosen the counter-sunk screws holding the flip chip in place on both the drive side and non-drive side flip chip with a 2.5mm hex tool
3. Remove the inside faces of both the drive side and non-drive side flip chip
4. For both the drive side and non drive side flip chip, remove and rotate the outside faces 180 degrees so that the axle holes now align with the Party Mode indicated on the fork.
5. Install the inside faces of the flip chip on the opposite side of the fork from where they were originally taken off (i.e. now install the drive side inside face of the flip chip on the non-drive side).
6. Check that the counter-sunk screw hole on the inside face of the flip chip lines up with the outside face
7. Tighten the counter-sunk screw of the flip chip to 2-3 Nm
8. Re-insert the thru-axle, making sure the axle now installs smoothly on the Party Mode position
9. Remove your Front Brake Caliper fastening bolts and keep them in a safe place
10. Place the flip chip caliper adapter under your front caliper and re-install the front caliper with the longer fastening bolts included to be used with the adapter
11. Center your brake caliper and tighten the fastening bolts to 5-6 Nm.

To switch back from Party Mode to Business Mode:

1. Remove the wheel and front thru-axle
2. Loosen the counter-sunk screws holding the flip chip in place on both the drive side and non-drive side flip chip with a 2.5mm hex tool
3. Remove the inside faces of both the drive side and non-drive side flip chip
4. For both the drive side and non drive side flip chip, remove and rotate the outside faces 180 degrees so that the axle holes now align with the Business Mode indicated on the fork.
5. Install the inside faces of the flip chip on the opposite side of the fork from where they were originally taken off (i.e. now install the drive side inside face of the flip chip on the non-drive side).
6. Check that the counter-sunk screw hole on the inside face of the flip chip lines up with the outside face
7. Tighten the counter-sunk screw of the flip chip to 2-3 Nm
8. Re-insert the thru-axle, making sure the axle now installs smoothly on the Business Mode position
9. Remove the flip chip caliper adapter and the longer Front Brake Caliper fastening bolts to be used with the adapter and keep it in a safe place
10. Re-install the front caliper with the original manufacturer-provided shorter fastening bolts included to be used with the adapter
11. Center your brake caliper and tighten the fastening bolts to 5-6 Nm.

Spacers for side 3-pack mount cargo bosses:

There are 6 silver spacers included to use with bolts on the side of the fork when you install any accessories such as a 3-pack mount cargo cage or a standard water bottle cage.

These silver spacers are necessary for the cage back plate the clear the fork so as not to damage the paint or the fork itself. When you don’t have any cages installed on the side of the fork, these silver spacers are not necessary.

If the original bolts provided with the fork are not long enough for your specific cage, you can use any standard M5 bolts of the appropriate length.

Tools and Supplies needed:

• Anti-seize (such as copper paste)
• Assembly grease
• Isopropyl Alcohol
• Clean rags or paper towels
• Torque wrench capable of 54Nm
• DUB BB torque wrench sleeve
• 8mm hex wrench
• 2mm hex screwdriver
• Rubber mallet

Parts needed (included in the BB package):

• 1 CEMA DUB Bottom Bracket
• 1 Thinner reducer
• 1 Thicker reducer
• 2 Additional spacers (For DUB Wide ONLY)
• 1 SRAM DUB Crank (standard or wide, 1x or 2x)

Frame Thread Prep:

1. Begin by making sure that the T47 threads on the frame are clean and free of dirt/grit. Suggested to clean with isopropyl alcohol and brush/clean rag.
2. After cleaning the thread, apply a thin even layer of Anti-Seize on the threads. If you do not have anti-seize, bike grease is an acceptable alternative, provided that you service, clean and lube your BB threads more often (every 3-6 months).

*If you live in a wet or humid climate or ride off-road, the service interval for your BB will be much shorter (1-2 months) or even as short as 1 extremely wet or muddy ride.

CEMA T47-Shimano BB installation:

1. Apply a thin even layer of anti-seize to the BB cup threads.
2. Install the Left-hand side (non-drive side) cup first, taking care not to cross-thread. The left hand cup is clockwise to tighten.
3. Install the right-hand side (drive side) cup, taking care not to cross-thread and also pay attention to the o-ring on the dust sleeve so that it does not fall off the sleeve during installation. The right hand cup is anti-clockwise to tighten.
4. Tighten BB cups to spec (45 Nm).
5. Make sure to grease the spindle where the bearing touches on the cranks prior to crank installation.

*Note on the bearing preload plastic cap for Shimano-style cranks:

Make sure the drive side crank arm is butted up against the drive side BB fully by giving the drive side crank a light tap towards the non-drive side before proceeding to tighten the plastic preload cap on the non-drive side.

Tighten the plastic caps only as tight as needed to remove any lateral play in the crank arms, that’s all. If you tighten the cap down too hard, it will put unnecessary pressure and wear out your BB bearings extremely fast.

CEMA T47-DUB BB installation:

1. Apply a thin even layer of anti-seize to the BB cup threads.
2. Install the Left-hand side (non-drive side) DUB reducer (1.5mm thick) over the original Left-hand side (non-drive side) BB-bearing dust shield.
3. Install the right-hand side (drive side) DUB reducer (4.2mm thick) over the original Right-hand side (drive side) BB-bearing dust shield.
4. The additional DUB Spacer arrangement will depend on the spindle length:
   1. Regular road spindle: The Spindle just says “DUB” on it, no additional spacers are required.
   2. Wider long spindle: The Spindle will say “DUB Wide” on it, an additional 2mm spacer (provided with BB) is required for both the drive and non-drive side of the spindle when you install the cranks.
5. Install the left-hand cup first, taking care not to cross-thread. The left-hand cup is clockwise to tighten.
6. Install the right-hand cup, taking care not to cross-thread and also pay attention to the o-ring on the dust sleeve so that it does not fall off the sleeve during installation. The right-hand cup is anti-clockwise to tighten.
7. Tighten BB cups to spec (45 Nm).
8. Make sure to grease the spindle where the bearing touches on the cranks prior to crank installation.

*Note on the bearing preload collar for DUB style cranks:

Make sure the drive side crank arm is butted up against the drive side BB fully by giving the drive side crank a light tap towards the non-drive side before proceeding to tighten the bearing preload collar on the non-drive side.

Tighten the bearing preload collar only as tight as needed to remove any lateral play in the crank arms, that’s all. If you tighten the preload collar too hard, it will put unnecessary pressure and wear out your BB bearings extremely fast.

For installation of other brands of BB:
Please follow BB manufacturers' installation instructions.

Stainless steel bolts need anti-seize when used in titanium frames to prevent galling and seizing between the two dissimilar metals. Galling is a phenomenon that occurs when two metals with similar hardness and surface roughness come into contact and create friction. This friction can cause
microscopic welding and tearing of metal surfaces, leading to the bolts getting stuck or seizing in the titanium frame.

Titanium is a reactive metal and has a tendency to bond with other metals under pressure and high temperatures, especially with stainless steel, which contains iron. When stainless steel bolts are tightened in a titanium frame, the pressure and friction can cause the two metals to bind together,
making it difficult to remove the bolts without damaging the frame or the bolts themselves.

Anti-seize compounds are lubricants that are applied to the threads and contact surfaces of the bolts. These compounds create a barrier between the dissimilar metals and reduce the friction and the chances of galling. The lubricating properties of anti-seize help the bolts to be tightened and loosened smoothly without causing damage or seizing.

By using anti-seize, you can prevent potential issues such as:

1. Bolt seizing: Bolts getting stuck and unable to be removed, leading to difficulties in maintenance or replacement.
2. Thread damage: The force required to remove seized bolts can strip or damage the threads on both the bolt and the frame.
3. Corrosion: When the bolts and frame are in direct contact, galvanic corrosion can occur due to the different electrochemical properties of the two metals.

In summary, using anti-seize on stainless steel bolts in titanium frames helps ensure smooth assembly, disassembly, and maintenance while preventing damage to the frame and the bolts caused by galling and seizing.

Locations for prep:

• Inside of head tube where the headset cups are pressed into the frame.
• BB cup threads where they thread into the frame
• Seatpost if using an aluminium/7tanium seatpost (for carbon seatpost use carbon assembly paste)
• Bolts that screw into the frame
• Stem top cap bolt that screws into the fork expander
• Stem bolts that screws into the stem
• Thru Axles that screws into the frame/fork dropout
• Rear derailleur fixing bolt that screws into the rear derailleur hanger

Check your chain regularly with a chain checker like the Park Tool CC-4. When it’s time to replace your chain, here is the optimal chain length for our standard specs for all models:

Serk is committed to crafting high-quality, custom bicycles for riders of all sizes. However, we want to ensure that our customers understand important considerations regarding weight limits and bike performance:

• Frame strength: While our bikes are built to high standards, they are rated to 115kg (rider plus bike weight) and distributed across the whole bike. In a scenario where the bike weight is 10kg and the rider is 95kg and with a 10kg bag hanging off the seatpost, the maximum weight limit is close to being exceeded. Testing this system to ensure there are no slippages before embarking on a cycling trip is important.